Cogne Conditions Jan 2012

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Great few days climbing with Olly who was fresh off the blocks, strong and keen. We got stuck into a few classics including Repentance, Lau Bij and for a bit of variety, some mountain action in Chamonix with Cascade du Cosmiques. Shame about the crux pitch of CDC – the chockstone was sporting a long narrow fin of unstable ice which wasn’t safe to climb around – the first time Ive ever had to turn around on this route which usually goes with some interesting mixed when its lacking ice. Cogne was in pretty good shape overall though, especially considering the conditions in some other parts of the Alps. We changed plans from Kandersteg to Simplon to here, after hearing about zero ice and huge wads of snow, but Cogne didn’t fail. Most of the classics were seeing traffic including Cascade Lillaz, Lillaz gully, Monday money, Flash estivo, Fiamma de Money, Cold Couloir, Candelabro Del Cayote, Chandelle L, Il Tutto Relativo, Patri etc. Well worth a visit just now.