Alpine Climbing Conditions 2/07/11

Ok, time for a roundup of the latest alpine climbing conditions here in Cham and elsewhere in the western Alps.  A couple of big dumps of snow in mid June left a lot of snow and ice on faces and ridges, followed by some hot weather last week which dried out rock routes and firmed up conditions.  So all in all, conditions are very good at the moment with plenty of ice around and good dry rock too.

The weather for the next few days is settled, getting warmer each day, then a possible cold front coming through mid week – so for anything icy, either get on it right now or wait till it gets cooler at the end of the week.

Routes recently climbed around the Mont Blanc range include:

Midi –  Frendo Spur – in excellent nick, Midi-Plan Traverse – incl descent to Requin Hut fine, Cosmiques, Rebuffat and other rock rtes all seeing plenty of traffic.

Mont BlancTrois Monts, Gouter, Italian Rte from Gonella hut all in good cond with good cramponing snow.

Tacul TriangleChere, Contamine Mazeaud (see pics), L Edge, Perroux, Temps Est Assasin – Petit Frounet also looks well iced, but an early start required.

Tour RondeSE Ridge, N Face classic route – other lines on the face look well plastered as well.

4000ersBionassey traverse in good cond, Droites S flank, VerteWhymper Couloir + Courturier both climbed this week (Col Armand Charlet NE Face also climbed this week), Dent du Geant, Aiguille du Rochefort, MB de Tacul + Mt Maudit

Grand JorrassesMacIntyre Couloir, Full Traverse also done, but very snowy.

Other Areas: Domes de Miage in good cond, Traverse of Les Courtes, Mt Dolent voie normale – Eckpfeiler looks well plastered too.

Across in Switzerland: good conds on The Breithorn Full traverse and Triftgrat, Lenzspitze NE Face, Dent Blanche S Ridge, Dom N Flank, Monch and Jungfrau voie normales, Lauteraarhorn S flank.

Over in Italy: Paradiso N Face in excellent nick, Ciarafon N Face, Monta Rosa massif – good cramponing conds, Liskamm traverse, Dent D’Herens in good cond.

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