Scottish Winter Climbing Conditions

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Just a quick update from north of the border, where Julian, Peter and I traversed the Aonach Eagach ridge and climbed Left Twin at Aonach Mor this weekend.

There was a heavy thaw early last week, followed by a slight drop in temperatures and stable weather, so plenty of ice buildup on the higher crags.

On the west coast Ben Nevis was particularly busy this weekend, whilst we were virtually alone at nearby Aonach Mor.  As mentioned, the highest crags in Glencoe are in, as well as the Ben,  Aonach Mor and Aonach Beag – but lower venues like the Buchaille are looking very black. 

Two particular points – in general the cracks are very icy at the moment, so finding protection is sometimes difficult and cornices are large at the top of many routes, so check you can actually top out before setting off!