Alpine Climbing Conditions 08-07-09

After a week or so of warm thundery weather, it’s now got much colder with a North westerly airflow for the next few days.  This week we’ve been dodging the weather a bit – climbing the 750m modern rock classic KERMESSE FOLK from the Dalmazzi Hut, then alpine ice climbing in the CHERE COULOIR yesterday accompanied by plenty of spindrift – but the route is in excellent condition, as are the other main lines on the Tacul.
20-30cm of fresh snow overnight stopped teams trying to Climb Mont Blanc this morning, but things are now clearing out.  Recent reports around the MONT BLANC RANGE include various routes being climbed on the VERTE, the descent of the GRAND JORRASSES is in good condition, W Face of the PETIT JORRASSES has been climbed but a bit damp here and there, GRAND CAPUCIN also but top pitches still damp, FRENDO good cond but now with a coating of fresh snow, BRENVA SPUR seracs OK to exit, GEANT/ROCHEFORT approach is still good, AIG DU TOUR Table de Roc couloir still in, MIDI PLAN traverse OK as a return but descent to Requin Hut now getting difficult.
A couple of snippets from elsewhere: MATTERHORN not yet in, LISKAMM in good nick – more info soon.

Dan Seale in the Chere Couloir
Dan Seale in the Chere Couloir