Alpine Climbing Conditions Update – 1/07/07

Many snow and ice routes are in good condition at the moment, with a lot of cold weather recently.  How long things last will depend on the temperatures, but it looks set to stay cool and unsettled for a few more days yet.  Olly climbed the Weissmeis, Lagginhorn and Allalinhorn around Saas Fee last week, reporting plenty of snow on all the normal routes and many classic faces in the area looking promising.

Regarding N Faces in the MB Massif – the Tacul Triangle is taking a hammering, N Face of the Chardonnet has various lines in, as does the Tour Ronde. On the Midi, the Frendo Spur has been climbed, but difficult due to snowed up rock, as has the Mallory Porter in less than ideal conds.

View of the N Face of the Grand Jorrasses, 28/06/07

On the bigger faces the Gd Jorrasses, Droites  + Sans Nom all look plastered, but is it just loose snow or ice?  There’s only one way to tell – (good luck!)  Numerous other areas look good, but no reports in as yet.

The Aig Telefre N Face is my personal tip for around Chamonix in the coming days if it stays reasonably cold – several lines here looked very promising the other day. Looking at the forecast though, the wind is coming from the NW - so if you’ve got some wheels then the Gran Paradiso or Bernina/Bregaglia/Tessin areas are likely to have the best weather in the near future (various guides have made the same decision + jumped in the car already!)